Archive for the ‘Sharpening Stones’ Category

Making Jigs for our Laser, with the Laser

February 12, 2019

At Jende Industries, we have some fun toys that we use in the production of the stones we cut for the KME, Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Hapstone, and TSProf. We label our 1×6 blanks up to 72 at a time, but first need to use the laser to make a jig for the laser. It’s more work than using Sharpie, but a little more genuine!


Making a Slurry on Natural Stones

February 10, 2019

Sharpening tips by Tom Blodgett of Jende Industries

Natural stones can often benefit from making a slurry. The slurry is made with a small piece of the same stone, or in this case, a 600 diamond plate.

The slurry is usually white in color, and makes the stone more aggressive out of the gate. This is especially helpful when transitioning from diamond plates to natural stones since the diamonds leave much deeper scratches than naturals.

Lost Art of the Local Sharpener

January 29, 2019

I ran across one of the last of a dying breed today – the local street sharpener working out of his modified motorcycle. His equipment is simple, yet effective: a stone grinding wheel for chips and repairs, a sandpaper flap wheel for the majority of the sharpening, and a very worn out 2×32″ belt for finishing.

He plugs his power cord in at the local shop he is visiting. He had a few other odds and ends for straightening blades and an oil stone he said he long since stopped using since most of the knives are poor quality steel these days.

We had a wonderful conversation, discussing some of the other sharpeners in town and how he is happy to be mobile and independent service without a storefront or employees to worry about. He got his start when his brother learned sharpening in Japan and set him up with the equipment he has been using since (the belt grinder needed a little knowing nudge to begin working).

He had no illusions of his purpose and his quality. More experienced sharpeners watching this video will no doubt have a lot to say about it, but he charges very little per knife and comes by every week or so. Several years ago, I would’ve been snooty and pointing out everything he did wrong. But experience has taught me some humility and perspective, and I truly praised his work, and will appreciate this chance meeting and this modern day reflection on his function in time and in the community.

Chosera Slip Stones 1×2″

January 15, 2019

1×2″ Chosera slip stones are the perfect stones for those little jobs! Carefully shaped with 3 different usable surfaces and 8 grits from 400 grit to 10K, they can fit into your glove box, field pack, first aid kit, bugout bag, tool box, or tackle box. One long surface is rounded over for use on recurves or scalloped serrations, while the other is shaped to a V for tighter serrations or small surfaces like wire nips, or field saws. The top and bottom flat surfaces can be used for conventional sharpening.

We’ve bundled these into 3 choices – a coarse set with 400, 600, 800, and 1K grit; a fine set with 2K, 3K, 5K, and 10K grits; and full set of 8 grits.

Jende Sharpening Tips – Knife Tip Radius, Freehand

November 28, 2018

Sharpening Tips from Tom Blodgett at

Freehand sharpening a radius tip on a most knives takes more strokes than just the straight flat section of the blade because only one small point touches the stone at a time. A good way to match the curvature without changing the angle or position of the blade is to lift the handle up by using your elbow in order to match the curve.

Knife: Benchmade CPM20CV

Stones: 600 Naniwa Bubble Gum, 1K Naniwa Goken Pro

Spyderco Stone Challenge

May 2, 2018

We recently started offering Spyderco Medium, Fine and Ultra Fine stone in 1×4″ and 1×6″ custom sizes for various sharpening systems. That is nothing major by itself, but it spurred a friendly challenge because historically, it was said that he Fine and UF were the same stone, only finished differently. I am of the mind that the Fine and UF are the same materials, and are formulated the same way, but use different sized abrasives (Fine is approx 2K while UF is approx 4K). This would explain the difference in finish as well as the cost for the stones. Konstantin from Gritomatic is of the mind that the stones are exactly identical in every way, including grit size, except there is a different surface finish/texture on the stone which influences the resulting scratches. So the gauntlet was thrown down to see if I could discern the difference between 5 fine and ultra fine Spyderco stones. The stakes are high, so we wagered a bottle of Russian Vodka vs. a bottle of Kinmen Kaoliang.

Before I continue, it must be said that both theories hold water. Natural stones such as quartz can be surface finished rougher or finer for different depths of scratch, which results in coarser or finer finishes. You see it with dressing sticks for tormek wheels, and is similar in action with raising slurry with diamond plates, and nagura or slurry/conditioning stones for synthetics. However, my stance is that regardless of the surface texture, the resulting scratches have always produced the same results under the scope despite their aggressiveness (as long a no other abrasives are introduced into the mix).

So we begin! The obligatory data info first – pictures were taken on a Dino-Lite AM4113T. There are bar measurements for 1mm at 20x and 0.2mm at 200x if you enlarge the photos.

I received 5 stones from Konstantin and was assured that there was at least 1 Fine and 1 UF in the mix. I did several “tests” to see if I could tell the difference before the scratch test. Now this is a little unfair since I have my own stones, cut and uncut, processed and unprocessed to compare to. So the first test was the thickness test. The Spyderco Fine is just a little thicker overall than the UF, so in theory, the thinner stones should be the UF. My results were as follows: Stones 2 and 5 should be Fine stones while 1, 3, and 4 should be UF. But of course, Konstantin would know this, so I could clearly not choose the cup in front of me.

So I took to the scope. First round was 20x pics against a control of my known stones. Results were interesting, and seemed pretty straight forward at first. Stones 1,2,4,and 5 were Fine while stone 3 was UF. But we knew Konstantin would know that I would use a scope, so he changed up the surface finishes to hide any immediate tells, so I could clearly not choose the cup in front of him.

Spyderco Fine Control 20x

Spyderco UF Control 20x

Stone 1 20x

Stone 3 20x

Stone 4 20x

Stone 5 20x


Onto the 200x, which would reveal even more secrets. Results were slightly different, with the 1,3,4 and 5 stones being fine and stone 2 being UF. Clearly this was starting to get dizzying…So I could clearly not choose the cup in front of me.

Spyderco Fine Control 200x

Spyderco UF Control 200x

Stone 1 200x

Stone 2 200x

Stone 3 200x

Stone 4 200x

Stone 5 200x

So seeing as the stones were lapped before I got them, and the control pics were different from what I was seeing, we lapped everything again – both my controls and the stones from Konstantin to see if that would even the field more. I spared you the 20x pics and jumped straight to the 200x. Results were 1,2,3 and 5 as Fine, and 2 and 4 as UF, so I could clearly not choose the cup in front of him!

Spyderco Lapped Fine Control 200x

Spyderco Lapped UF Control 200x

Stone 1 Lapped 200x

Stone 2 Lapped 200x

Stone 3 Lapped 200x

Stone 5 Lapped 200x

So enough games – it’s time to drink. Last test was the all out scratch test. I started off with a control 600 diamond scratch, and then make parallel scratches against the control stones. Each time I went to a new stone, including the on the controls, I reset the askew angle on the 600 diamond to erase all traces of the previous scratches so we could see a true finish. Here the results are a little more visible, ending with stones 2,3,and 5 being Fine and Stones 1 and 4 as UF. Quite a different story from the previous tests.

600 Diamond Control 200x

Spyderco Fine Control 200x

Spyderco UF Control 200x

Stone 1 Blade Test 200x

Stone 2 Blade Test 200x

Stone 3 Blade Test 200x

Stone 4 Blade Test 200x

Stone 5 Blade Test 200x


So in conclusion, I say the Fine stones are 2, 3, and 5, while the UF stones are 1 and 4. This was a tough test, to be honest. I’m glad we were able to have fun, I will post the actual grits from Konstantin when he reveals them.

Either way, it was better than getting involved in a land war in Asia. I think it’s time to drink some alcohol! Inconceivable!

Jende Industries Stone Cutting

February 27, 2018

Jende Industries is the leading supplier of customized cut stones for the KME Sharpener, Hapstone, Edge Pro, TSProf, and the Wicked Edge.  It’s not hard to see why.


Suehiro Stones for the KME Sharpener- GC 180 and R 1K – an Economical Progression

January 8, 2018

I decided to kick off the new year with some of our Suehiro stones for the KME Sharpener. Using the GC 180 and R 1K Suehiro stones, I took a very dull and neglected blade and brought it back to life using a minimalist approach. The results speak for themselves, proving that you can get some very respectable edges with economical stone alternatives. And although you can only pick 2 options from Good, Fast, or Cheap, choosing wisely is the key.


Since the Suehiro stones are waterstones, they will need to be presoaked, especially upon the first use. Do not use oil with these stones. A small dish or tub of water will do. The GC 180 is thirsty, and the R 1K may bubble for a minute. I usually add a small capful of soap or bleach to my stones to kill anything in my tap water and to keep the stones sanitary.


While the stones took a bath, I set up the knife in the KME. This was an old Herder Reed Knife, which is essentially a hollow ground razor in a handle. I lined up the spine with the first line on the KME jaws and made sure the both sides were even, since there are no flats for the jaws to grab.

I then set my angle, which in this case was dictated by the limitations of the narrow blade. I set the angle so the stones would just clear the jaws. It ended up being around 25 degrees. I was ready to put the Suehiro GC 180 into the KME handle. Since one side of the stones are labeled, it is highly recommended to use only the unmarked side, so as to keep the stones clearly marked over time.

Ready to sharpen, here’s what our edge looked like under the scope – first is the macro picture, then the micro picture. You can see the rust and overall lack of shape or edge in both pictures. The microscope pictures were taken with a Veho-400, and macro image size is 10mm high by 13mm wide while the micro images are 0.75mm high by 1mm wide.

Herder Before – Macro

Herder Before – Micro


Using the Suehiro GC 180, I began scrubbing away at the edges. I did approx 200 strokes per side, adding a spritz of water as necessary to keep viscosity. I use a 7ml bottle, and 1-2 spritzes is enough to keep things alive for a while. The 180 will require more water in general, as it is more porous in nature.


The Suehiro GC 180 is a rather coarse stone, which literally gives its life to the cause of speed (remember – good, fast or cheap). I won’t try to fool anyone, but the stone dishes as a result of its sacrifice. All coarse grits dish. It’s a curse, really because they get the most use. Ideally, you would use a belt sander or the XX-Coarse diamond KME stone first to set the bevel, and then use the 180 to clean things up in the transition to the 1K, which is a decent working sharp, and only 3 stones. I felt the burr after about another 100 strokes per side. Here are the resulting macro and micro images.

Herder, Suehiro GC 180 Macro

Herder, Suehiro GC 180 Micro

Not bad, and a big difference.  The edge is jagged, yes, but it is defined and ready for the next step to the Suehiro R 1K. But first, I want to show the dishing of the stone. It looks worse than it is. On a small length like 4″ for the KME Sharpener, the abrasion happens in such a concentrated area. We will flatten the stone afterward and you will see it’s not so bad.


So, onto the Suehiro R 1K. I wiped off the 180 residue and prepped for the 1K by using the olde sharpie trick instead of the stone thickness compensator. Basically, jab the tip of a sharpie (or permanent ink marker) into the blade and slide it across, Seppuku style – it marks both sides of the bevel in one swoop. It kills the tips of the markers, though.  🙂

Then onto the Suehiro R 1K, and I tested to see if just a couple light strokes would remove the sharpie line, and it did. So I didn’t need to further adjust the height/angle of the stone, despite the slight dishing from the GC 180.

With the R 1K, the intention is to remove the 180 grit scratches and smooth over the edge with the 1K scratches to get a working sharp edge. I did about 100 scrubbing strokes per side, checking for a burr, which appeared with no problems, as per the sharpie trick, and then switched off to a pyramid progression of 30-20-15-10-5-3-1-1-1-1-1-1 per side, with a light touch.  The idea behind finishing with the pyramid is to minimize the burr buildup, allowing for the edge of the edge to be as intact as possible. Here are the results under the scope.

Herder, Suehiro R 1K Macro

Herder, Suehiro R 1K Micro

Not too shabby, if I do say so myself! Then it was time for the cleanup. Lapping is an essential step in sharpening to keep waterstones clean and flat in order to yield the best results with precision sharpeners like the KME. This can be done with wet/dry sandpaper, SiC powder on glass, or, probably the easiest method, is with a diamond plate. No matter what method you employ, the technique is the same. 1. Mark the stone with a pencil. 2. Lap in alternating configurations 3. Repeat until all pencil marks are gone. Step 1 is marking. That’s easy!

Step 2 gets a little more complicated. Bascially, I do a series of 5-10 strokes in a “straight line”, then switch to an askew in one direction, and then an askew in the other, then back to center. I found this changes the pressure points to even everything out.

Straight lapping first

Askew one direction – but keep the lapping motion straight.

Askew in the opposite direction – but keep the lapping motion straight.

Step 3 is making sure all the pencil markings are gone. I generally repeat step 2, and will use more or less strokes per position depending on how much pencil is left. In the example below, I ended up doing only 3-5 in each position since we were pretty close already.

Repeat until all pencil marks are gone!!!

Ahhhh! That’s better!

And remember how badly the stone looked dished? Well, it looks normal again. Keep in mind, there will be a gradual increase of difference between the coarser and finer grit stones as time goes on.

As for the R 1K, it barely showed any signs of dishing, and was clean in 3-5 strokes per position.


Total time on the knife, including sharpening, lapping, pictures and microscope fiddling was about 30 minutes. Actual sharpening time was about 10 minutes, max. Of course, your times will vary depending upon blade condition, thickness, length, and steel type. I totally understand that not everyone wants to, can, or even needs to drive a Ferrari or Lamborghini. With the Suehiro GC 180 and Suehiro R 1K, it makes a no frills, yet very respectable and economical progression option for your KME Sharpener.

FInd these, and other fine stones for the KME Sharpener on our website:

KME Sharpener Diamond Films by Jende 1″x4″

September 14, 2017

The KME Diamond Films by Jende bring yet another level of ability to the KME Sharpener! With the mainstream use of more abrasion resistant steels and ceramic blades, comes the need for something that will cut through everything. That would be diamonds. We’ve custom made the 1″x4″ Jende Diamond Films to fit the KME Sharpener with a 1/4″ acrylic base to create the proper thickness. These films can also be used for slip stones, wrapping around dowels for serrations, and whatever else you can think of!

The KME Diamond Films by Jende come in a wide range of grits, including 80, 60, 45, 30, 15, 9, 6, 3, 1, and 0.5 microns (from 220 grit to 30,000 grit!) with or without PSA backing. They are also available in 6 grit variety packs, or single grits of 5 pieces.

You can see our full line of KME Sharpener stones, strops, and films here.

Jende Hapstone V6 Has Been Unleashed!

February 9, 2017

The Jende Hapstone V6 is now in stock! This is the first collaboration with Jende Industries and the Hapstone Sharpener. We’ve got the V6 sharpener tricked out with the Jende red and black colors, as well as a couple of other goodies.


One of the benefits of the Jende Hapstone V6 aside from its striking beauty, is the option to accessorize like mad – you can choose from a full line of Shapton Glass stones, Chosera stones, and from our complete line of Color-coded Jende Nanocloth Ultra Strops with CBN and Poly Diamond emulsions as well as our Kangaroo and Leather strops!

And if that was not enough, the Jende Hapstone V6 also has a rotary sharpening attachment, which clamps blades and rotates them without the need to move the knife at all!


So if you’re in the market for a new sharpener. make it a Jende Hapstone V6!